A hike above the fjord-like Kotor bay via the Lovcen mountains to the fairytale village of Svety Stefan.
DAY 0: Dubrovnik
Before the hike we spent a night in Dubrovnik. This is a good basepoint since there are daily buses from here to Kotor.
The old town was super-beautiful but packed with tourists on the main streets. The backstreets were quiet though, and we found a superb vegetarian restaurant called Nishta.
DAY 1: Perast – Svety Andrija fort
We started the hike in the small town of Perast. It is a very beautiful small town of old venetian houses along steep, narrow streets. There are several churches and old palaces. It is listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO.
We followed a poorly marked trail, that zigzagged up the mountain. Great views of the Boka Kotorska “fjord”. The small strait on the photo is all that connects the bay with the Adriatic.
At the end of the bay is the town Kotor and the snowy peak in the background is Štirovnik (1769 m).
First view of the Svety Andrija fort, built by the Austrian army in the 19th century.
DAY 2: SVETY ANDRIJA FORT – VALISTE VILLAGE
Mt Orjen (1894 m) covered by snow. This is the highest peak by the coast in Montenegro. It is said to be the rainiest place in Europe (not that it rains very often, but when it rains it REALLY rains).
European green lizard
The trail followed the old Austrian army road, and passed several deserted villages.
The steep part on the left is about 1000 meters high.
An old, ruined chapel
A deserted village next to Graz peak. The terraces would have been a nice place to pitch a tent
DAY 3: VALISTE VILLAGE – VUCNI DO
Water is not easy to find along this trail. This well in a village had a small amount of water. It was the first water we found since the cistern under the floor of the Sveti Andrija fort.
I find it amazing that there has been villages in this rugged place
Another dream-site for camping
Shortly before Mali Zalazi village. We walked over the twin peak (Luk) to the left.
Velji Zalazi village
Third water-place on the hike so far: a deep well where we had to use a rope and our pot (with a stone inside) to get to the water. (My friend Micke who walked here the following year found this well to have very smelly water, so don’t rely on it…)
The church was preserved, but most of the village in ruins.
The ruined village is visible to the right. What a spectacular location!
The peaks belong to the Lovcen national park, Sitrovnik (1789 m) to the right and Jizerski vrh to the left.
Finally some fresh food and beer, at a restaurant near the Krstac pass.
View from the Krstac viewpoint above Kotor, 1000 meters down
Old house at Vucni Do.
Our campsite in Vucni Do. The tranquility was disturbed when a car came driving over the meadows and parked less than 100 meters away. Two men started a very noisy petrol-powered generator that powered a large lamp and loud music. So much for enjoying the peaceful nature…
DAY 4: VUCNI DO – IVANOVA KORITA
The trail followed a snowy track through the beech forest.
We had to cross several places where avalanches had destroyed the forest. It was very tiring to cross, and quite dangerous too.
Avalanche area. A wilderness right next to the Mediterranean Sea
Relieved after crossing the last avalanche area.
Looking back to the saddle between the peaks, where we had walked earlier the same day.
Dinner at a fancy hotel in Invanova Korita. We could have stayed in the fancy hotel but chose to camp in the forest instead as real hikers
There were lots of people here having picknick. Mainly families with kids but also some guys that were here to party. We were offered a beer from their fridge
DAY 5: IVANOVA KORITA – KOSMAC FORTRESS
More snowy tracks with many fallen branches, quite tiring to walk here…
A nice view of Sitrovnik and Jizerski vrh peaks. The building on top of the latter peak (on the right) is a famous mausoleum dedicated to the country’s national poet called Njegos.
Another view of the Lovcen wilderness from Babia Glava
Walking on the ridge after Babia Glava was really nice. The tiny island that is vagely visible on the coast to the left is Svety Stefan, where we will end our hike.
The area was full of sinkholes, and reminded us a bit of Galicica in Macedonia.
Kosmac fortress above Brajici village, also built by the Austrians.
We pitched our tent right in front of the fort, with a view of the ocean. The island is Sveti Stefan, the goal of our hike.
Enjoying the sunset in the evening
DAY 6: KOSMAC FORTRESS – SVETY STEFAN
A lovery trail, very easy walking and excellent ocean views
From the Ogradenice church, which is up on the ridge, we descended on a jeep road. In the forest we found this old van that had been converted into a monastery
A monastery above Sveti Stefan.
Sveti Stefan. This used to be a fishing village until the Jugoslav government turned it into one big resort. It is still a stunning view